Coast Silk-tassel’s Late Winter Tresses

The Silk-tassel is a familiar enough shrub often encountered in the Coastal Ranges of California and southwestern Oregon.    We have grown the species for many years in the gardens at Joy Creek Nursery.  Although it is a worthy evergreen native shrub that makes a fine background plant in the summer I have often thought that its incredible winter bloom gets lost in the dense foliage.

Six years ago, I bought Garrya elliptica ‘James Roof’ to go into the native plant border at my home.  I was pleased that it grew quickly and created a thick screen between me and the driveway next-door even if its habit was ungainly.  Branches curved in a drooping fashion back down to the ground.  Others twisted themselves around neighboring branches as if they were seeking a way out of the evergreen tangle.  Because much of the growth was lateral and downward, I began to contemplate what I could do to encourage upward growth.   I wanted to see the tassels drape the shrub like tinsel on a Christmas tree.

Once the shrub had gotten five feet tall, I began to prune it with an eye toward opening it up.  My goal was to take out unattractive twisted branches and branches that descended.  Because there were so few truly upward growing branches, I did this task cautiously at first.  As the shrub matured, I became bolder.  Finally early this winter, even though the tassels had already started to form, I began removing all unwanted branches.   When I was done, I had an open, airy Silk-tassel that looked nothing like the dense shrub I was familiar with.

By the beginning of February, the tassels began to extend until they reached their full length of 12 to 13 inches which is the characteristic of ‘James Roof’.  These tassels often come in terminal sets of five accompanied by two sets of three additional tassels at the leaf axils immediately behind the terminal.  The tightly-scaled tassels are grey green at this point but toward the middle of February the scales loosen to reveal tiny flowers so full of pollen that a slight brush of the hand releases a small cloud.  ‘James Roof’ is a male clone and does not develop fruit.

To my delight, my pruning worked.  The tassels blew in the breeze and did exactly what I hoped for as you can see in the accompanying pictures.  By opening up the shrub, and giving it a sense of transparency, I have come to really appreciate the glory of this native.  I have become a true believer.

Maurice Horn

 

Interview with Mike Smith about his Pruning Class

We are having our first class of the year Sunday March 4th.  Mike Smith, co-owner of Joy Creek and pruning guru, will be talking and demonstrating the finer points of pruning.  It is at 1pm and make sure to dress for the weather.

Why do we have this class at this time of year?

In most gardens, as the winter draws to an end, there are a significant number of plants that require pruning.  Whether the source of the need is the repair of winter damage, plant health or aesthetics pruning just before a plant breaks dormancy gives the plant a fresh start at the beginning of the season.  This time of year also lets the pruner see more clearly where and what to prune.

What aspects of pruning do you plan on covering during the class?

In the class I will begin by spending a short time covering pruning basics and the equipment needed.  The majority of the class will then be spent on demonstrating my approach to pruning various shrubs and small trees.  I will also review the progress made on several plants that have been pruned during previous years pruning classes.  The class will end with a quesiton and answer period.

Is there a specific area of the gardens that you plan to address?

The plan is to thin and shape a grouping of shrubs and small trees that over time have grown together so that each plant has lost its individuality.  The goal is to bring back visual balance back to the planting.

What is your favorite type of plant to prune?

My favorite plant to prune depends entirely upon my frame of mind at the time.  If I am frustrated and want to release some aggression then an English laurel hedge is a good target.  If I am feeling creative and thoughtful then pruning a Japanese laceleaf maple is always fun and interesting.

WHEN TO RENOVATE THE GARDEN

There comes a time in the life of every garden when the gardener begins to wonder if a renovation is due. It usually sneaks up on you because you planted those trees and shrubs when they were “babies”. The expectation was that it would take forever for them to mature. All of a sudden, they’re blocking the windows and threatening to take over the drive-way! It’s time.

Winter is very good for taking stock of how the landscape has matured. All of the “bones” of the garden (the tree trunks and canopies, the shapes of the major shrubs and shadows of the conifers) stand out. Because the days are cloudy and the sun is low, you also get a good sense of how much the interior of the house is being affected by mature plants. If you sit in your living room, look out and get a closed in feeling, it’s time to take action.

Here are a few questions to ask yourself: 1) Are the trees doing what I want them to do? I.e.: shade, flowers, fruit, anchoring beds, shelter for birds? 2) Are the conifers filling the spaces the way I envisioned when they were planted? I.e.: are they growing straight, interfering with other plants, blocking views or paths? 3) Are the shrubs looking good and blooming well? 4) Are the perennials filling the bed? Are they blooming well? Are the crowns dense and healthy? 5) Are the vines doing their jobs? I.e.: Hiding fences, providing shade, fragrance, flower and fruit? 6) Are the paths clearly visible, easy to walk on and unobstructed by plants? 7) Are the ornamental walls, pergolas, trellises etc. in good repair, clearly visible and functioning as planned? 8) Is the water feature easy to maintain, safe and attractive?

You had a plan when all these elements of the garden went in. Being a living, functioning organism, the garden does things you don’t plan. Sometimes it’s better, sometimes a detriment. If you spend a lot of time working and living in your garden, you are in tune with it. Pay attention to the feeling you get when you look at your garden. This will help you answer the above questions and lead to a decision about major changes.

I never thought I would get to the place where I would have to move or take out major plants. This year, I have taken out two very large shrubs, moved established shrubs from one place to another and begun severe pruning of one of my large clematis vines. What has surprised me is that these changes have led to other major decisions for change. I discovered in an effort to move one of my very favorite small confers, that it had been growing sideways for many years and had a horizontal trunk. It was very unhappy. Trying to transplant it would do no good. Sadly, I have to give it up to the compost pile and wood pile. Gladly, the plants around it will be happier and look better.

My water feature has been a source of satisfaction and great consternation almost since we installed it. The fiberglass reservoir was tipping more and more to one side every year. I was convinced that roots from one of the large firs or cedars were pushing it out of shape. This fall, we finally took the whole thing apart. This entailed moving a lot of rocks! We discovered no roots at all! It was a puzzle. It took a few days of prodding my memory of the initial installation to remember that we really hadn’t set the reservoir properly to begin with. Because of excessive heat and troublesome tree roots, we had dug a shallow hole and decide to prop up the sides. Gravity had done the rest. We’ll do it right when we reinstall.

Making major changes can often be difficult. The decision to remove a large plant that you’ve become accustomed to is often put off until you hate the plant. This is not always a bad thing! Another way to make these changes easier is to assess your property carefully. You will almost always discover a choice plant languishing for want of a better location. (You know, the wonderful specimen bought on impulse.) When the over grown plant is removed and the new put in, the feeling is one of satisfaction and accomplishment rather than loss.

I had a Viburnum that I loved planted to fill a large bare space at the front of the house. It did exactly what I wanted it to…..and more. When I found myself contemplating a very harsh pruning, I knew it was time to remove it. I put it off. Then, I discovered that a lovely variegated Pieris on my property was being overrun by the plants around it. It was ideal for the Viburnum spot. Since it is a slow grower, I also planted a climbing Hydrangea behind the Pieris and against the brick wall of the house. These two plants will fill the space and also light up the north exposure with the white of the leaves and flowers. The claustrophobic feeling of the Viburnum is gone.

This is what to look forward to when you get to the renovation stage. Hard choices are made but a refreshed garden leads to a refreshed gardener. The cycle of learning, discovery and satisfaction continues.

Nadine Black

NEW PLANT INTRODUCTIONS FROM JOY CREEK NURSERY – Helenium and Geranium

Among the plants that Joy Creek Nursery is introducing in 2012 are two perennials that we found as seedlings in our gardens – one a helenium, one a geranium. We have enjoyed them both immensely.

Helenium ‘Tijuana Brass’ PP22346 has a long history. We found it at least 15 years ago and fostered it until we could determine its merits. Plantsman David Culp visited our garden not many years later and was taken with this particular helenium. David noted the large size of the flowers and the fact that the foliage on our seedling looked fresh and green while the stems of the other named cultivars of heleniums looked naked. (Many cultivars suffer from this “bare-legged” appearance.) We monitored the plant for several more years and finally offered it to Sunny Border Nursery in Connecticut for trialing. They trialed it and then sent it to Peter zur Linden, a helenium authority in Germany, for trial. His judgment was that it was superior in all ways with a vigor and size he had not seen before. Sunny Border Nursery helped us with the patenting process.

In the garden at Joy Creek Nursery, ‘Tijuana Brass’ is tall and upright in habit. It produces golden yellow ray-flowers that are larger than those of most named cultivars and maintains the foliage on its lower stems throughout the blooming period. The central cone of the flowers is golden brown. The flowers are favored by plant pollinators and, when in bloom from mid-August to the end of September, they are abuzz with a variety of native bees as well as honey bees. Standing from 4 to 5 feet, this helenium makes a glorious backdrop to the summer border.

Geranium ‘Pure Joy’ has a much shorter history. Found six years ago in our clematis display beds, this geranium caught our attention from the moment it bloomed because of the pristine appearance of its flowers. We grow other white-flowered forms of geraniums but none of their flowers are as pure as those of this seedling. The whiteness of the filaments and the near-white of the cream colored anthers all combine to enhance the effect. Even the creamy buds are attractive. The leaves betray the parentage of this seedling, looking like those of G. sanguineum. In habit, this perennial is low and mounding. We have also been impressed with the length of its bloom time. With a little dead-heading, it will flower throughout the summer.

We hope that all of our new plants enrich your garden experience

JOY CREEK PLANT INTRODUCTIONS 2012 – Penstemons

Joy Creek Nursery has long relied on “garden penstemons” to brighten up our mixed borders. These versatile perennials come in so many vibrant colors and bloom over such a long period of time that it is hard to imagine our gardens without them. Their tubular flowers are large and showy, just the right size to house sleeping bumblebees overnight. Most cultivars have flowers with relatively wide lips surrounding their flower tubes. The lips consist of three lobes in the lower lip and two in the upper. Over the years we have selected and introduced seedlings that have unusual colors or markings.

Usually, the throats of penstemon flowers are streaked with dark guide lines that are possibly used to guide pollinators in search of the nectar at the base of the flowers. However, occasionally, during our evaluations, we have come upon odd-ball seedlings that have almost pure white throats that contrast sharply with the color of the surrounding lips. Some of our first penstemon introductions, a series which we called the Kissed Series, featured just such a combo of white throats and colorful lips. The series included ‘Cerise Kissed’, ‘Violet Kissed’, ‘Coral Kissed’, and ‘Wine Kissed’ which we released over a short period of time in the late 1990’s.

Recently our attention has been drawn back to the Kissed Series because of an extraordinary set of new seedlings that we grew. Among these seedlings were several plants with very white throats surrounded by lips in colors we hadn’t seen before.

The first of those seedlings to catch our eyes had flowers with vibrant rose-colored lips. The large flowers measured more than 1 ½ inches across. What was also pleasing was the composition of these flowers on the stem. Forty or more flowers and buds were arranged in a loose triangle with the flowers facing outward. Eventually, we decided to add this to the Kissed Series and named it ‘Rose Kissed’. It stands between 27 and 30 inches tall with a 15 inch spread.

One of its sisters was also very exciting. The arrangement of her flowers was similar to those of ‘Rose Kissed,’ however this seedling had brilliant scarlet lips. At first we worried that this plant was too similar to the classic cultivar named ‘Scarlet Queen’, but after growing our plant out in the garden, we discovered that it had larger, wider flowers. Also, the flowers of this new selection had a “quirk,” something that gave them “attitude.” Its flowers had very broad lower lobes and much smaller upper lobes. These upper lobes sometimes had a twist or tip to them that gave them a jaunty “devil-may-care” appearance. It is curious details like this that make for interesting plants. The color of the lips was so bright we named it ‘Red Hot Kissed’. It reaches about 24 inches in height and 15 inches in width.

Care for both of these plants is the same. Both like full sun. Although they require regular water, they do not like wet sites and require good drainage. They also resent cold winter winds. We recommend a sheltered site. In milder climates, these form attractive, evergreen shrubs. Cut back spent bloom spikes to encourage new growth and repeat bloom. Penstemons will bloom until first frost in the Pacific Northwest. Their September and October blooms complement the changing colors of the autumn garden while their lingering November flowers serve as bright spots in the early winter gloom.

NEW PLANT INTRODUCTIONS FROM JOY CREEK NURSERY – Clematis

Joy Creek Nursery has introduced more than thirty of its own cultivars since it began in 1992, but, despite the fact that we have a large collection of clematis and have been fortunate to introduce many selections from other hybridizers, we have never released our own clematis. This year, 2012, changes that with the introductions of Clematis ‘Dark Dancer,’ Clematis ‘Pink Pinwheel’ and Clematis ‘Pagoda Pink.’

Clematis ‘Dark Dancer’ has had a long history. We discovered it sixteen years ago as a seedling in our stock fields. The four tapered sepals of its rich violet flowers were darker than we had ever seen on an alpina-type Clematis. They nodded at the ends of amazing purple black stems. This was a special plant, we felt, but we wanted assurance that it was unique enough to release. We propagated it, protected it and kept it alive in various sizes of pots for more than a decade while we evaluated it. Finally, as part of the celebration of our 20th Anniversary, we decided to make it available to home gardeners.

‘Dark Dancer’ is an April bloomer, often flowering during our rainiest days in the Portland area. The long sepals can measure up to 2 ½ inches long. A sparse interior skirt of “staminodes” is white and blends with the white filaments and pale yellow anther connectives. The burgundy buds are narrow and tapering.

In the Pacific Northwest, good morning light with relief from the afternoon sun in summer ensures a healthy plant. Prune lightly after the spring bloom if you want to promote a second, more modest flush of bloom. Otherwise, sit back and enjoy the attractive silvery seed heads. Because it blooms on wood produced during the previous year, do not prune it in the spring. This is a deciduous plant.

Clematis ‘Pink Pinwheel’ derives from a different species of clematis – Clematis integrifolia. This is an herbaceous species that does not climb but generally reaches 2 to 3 feet in height and flowers sequentially down its stems. Early in our history, we were inspired by the work of the Japanese clematis hybridizer Kazushige Ozawa who selected such plants as Clematis ‘Andante’ and Clematis ‘Hanajima’. We were fortunate to receive many unnamed seedlings from him. One of them has huge leaves and flowers and is double the height and size we usually associate with this species. We have used it as a seed source and raised countless seedlings from it. This is the first of eight that we ultimately planted out in our test garden. The blooms of ‘Pink Pinwheel’ have four tapered sepals that recurve and twist giving the flowers a real pinwheel appearance. The flowers face slightly outward away from the plant. There is light bronzing in the young leaves.

Its sister Clematis ‘Pagoda Pink’ is very different in appearance. Where the flowers of ‘Pink Pinwheel’ have a windswept look, those of ‘Pagoda Pink’ are contemplative, hanging downward. Its sepals recurve upward mimicking the roofline of a pagoda. Their rosy pink coloration is complimented by bronze young foliage which is present throughout the growing season. We cut this back by half after the first round of bloom and had a wonderful late bloom with lots of eye-catching bronze foliage.

Ultimately, both these plants reach about 2 ½ feet in height in our garden. We keep them upright by tying them loosely with garden twine to a sturdy stake apiece. If you do so, the plants will be a little more than a foot wide. If you let them sprawl, they will be much wider. Because they are herbaceous, cut them back to a few inches from the ground during the winter any time after a hard freeze.

These are the first of many new clematis that we hope to share with you.

FOR THE GARDENER WHO HAS EVERYTHING

A gardener does not exist who has everything they want for their work in the garden.  Gardening is a process (and an addiction) that never ends.  I hope to stimulate your imaginations and show you that gifts for gardeners are in abundant supply.

TOOLS:  This category covers a lot of territory.  Writing from a “middle-aged” point of view, kneeling pads are very welcome.  I have a pair of neoprene kneeling pads that Velcro around my legs and give me immunity to any object that may want to poke out of the ground and slow my progress.  Pruners of all shapes and sizes are very desirable.  I love my pole pruner!  There is something about being able to reach up to the top of my Japanese Maple for that wayward branch, from my 5’1” height, that gives me a sense of power.  My needle-nosed Corona pruners have given way to a set made by Fiskars.  The new tool is lighter weight and more versatile with sharp and serrated edges on the outside of the blades.  I also like the usefulness of the holster.  It clips to waistband or pocket edge easily.  Finally, my Japanese gardener’s knife is my weeding tool of choice.  It is strong and versatile and virtually indestructible.  I can push it down to get the tip of the darned dandelion root or use the serrated edge to scrape off the cluster of weed seedlings that have sprouted in an open space.  The key to tools is to buy quality.  It may cost a bit more, but the tools will last a lifetime.  Gloves are essential tools too.  For women, I recommend WOMENSWORK  gloves.  As a person with small hands, these well made and very tough gloves are some of the few that fit.  I know you all have had that annoying sensation of trying to pick a weed or flower only to have the fingertips of the gloves flop uselessly.

CONTAINERS:  By this I mean pots, pots of all kinds.  From plain old terra cotta to art pieces, a gardener cannot say not to containers.  If you want them to last, look for thick walls and high firing. Bringing them out of bad weather will also contribute to their longevity.  Don’t stop at pottery.  Galvanized steel and other metals are fashionable right now as well as pots made of fiberglass.  The later is what boats are made of.  They come in all sizes and shapes and the color selection is amazing.  If you buy fiberglass, be sure holes are drilled in the bottoms.

GARDEN ORNAMENTS:  This is a category much like containers, it knows only the bounds of your imagination.  I would love someone to give me a collection of the small gazing balls that are available in many colors.  It would be great fun to “plant” them in among different foliages and flowers as a surprise in the garden.  My best friend gave me a box full of broken pottery to use to create a “ruin” effect in one of my gardens.  There are many artists creating wonderful pieces for our gardens and a gift that special is always appreciated.  Critters can be fun in the garden too.  The much maligned pink flamingo is making a comeback.  Dogs, cats and rabbits, not to mention frogs and turtles are sure to fit into the garden you are shopping for.

OTHER IDEAS:  Quickly, before I run out of room.  Books, get ones with lots of photos; Magazine subscriptions, from organic to high design, browse the news stand; Catalogues, assemble a pile from offers in the back of those magazines; Gift certificates, from a favorite catalogue or garden center (like Joy Creek Nursery, sorry, we have to try); Seeds, collect from your garden or buy from heirloom sources.  Try a membership in a gardening or conservation organization.  Finally, who couldn’t use a personal promise to come and help weed?!

Merry Christmas!

Nadine Black

Late Spring/Summer Pruning at Joy Creek Nursery

Most often, when we gardeners in temperate climates think of pruning we concentrate on the late fall and winter period of the year.  It is the time when the plants are dormant that we trim, shape, or otherwise modify how our shrubs and trees will grow in the following years.  Yet, a large number of shrubs and trees respond very favorably to being pruned, sometimes aggressively, during the active growing period in the late spring and summer.

Many shrubs and small trees respond best to being pruned directly after they finish blooming.  Some examples of these are Rhododendrons, Syringa cultivars (Lilacs), early flowering Viburnums, Rosa forms and many others.  Pruning directly after bloom allows a gardener to preserve or encourage more potential blooms for the following growing season while allowing the plant in question to be shaped or downsized.

In the case of trees, summer is an excellent time to adjust the height of the understory.  Overtime branches that grow in the interior of a tree’s structure often grow horizontally towards the light available at the edges of the canopy.  Many of these branches are moderate to weak growers that only add weight to the load carried by the tree’s trunk.  These same horizontal branches often droop towards the ground at the ends creating both a visual and spatial heaviness to the eye plus restricting the available light for plants we might want to grow beneath a tree. (Note: To avoid suckering, pruning out the top of the canopy is usually best left for when the plant of dormant,)

The extent of adjustment in height from the ground to the lowest edge of the understory will obviously vary depending on the size of the tree involved. For example I will lift the canopy by two to three feet on a Cercis canadensis ‘Forest Pansy’ (Purple leafed eastern redbud) and up to fifteen or so feet for Juglans regia (English walnut tree)*.  Here in the gardens at Joy Creek Nursery I rotate our summer pruning through our trees and shrubs on about a three year cycle or as needed in my judgment.

Sometimes pruning back the ends of lower hanging branches as well as removing the secondary and tertiary branches that hang down from a main branch will lessen the weight on the branch and allow it raise up sometimes by several feet.  This approach works well on smaller trees and shrubs.

One side effect of pruning back and limbing up trees and shrubs is that the overall width of the plants is often significantly reduced.  This process can change significantly the exposure to sunlight for surrounding plants.   The added sunlight will allow sun loving and partial sun loving plants to thrive while for shade lovers a move to a new location may be the order of the day.

Below are some examples of recent pruning in our display gardens.

Fagus sylvatica purpurea (Purple leafed Beech or Blood Beech) (Height about 25-30 feet, diameter before pruning about 25 feet while closer to 18 feet after pruning, understory height before pruning 7 feet, after pruning about 12 feet)

Rhododendron ‘Cotton Candy’ and ‘Pink Chiffon’ (A mixed planting averaging about 15 feet in height, Width before pruning 10-12 feet, after pruning 8-9 feet, understory before pruning 6-7 feet, after pruning 10-11 feet)

Fraxinus not ‘Raywood’** (Height about 25 feet, Width before pruning about 15 feet, width after pruning about 13 feet, understory height before pruning about 8-9 feet, after pruning about 15-16 feet.) I usually prune up the understory on this tree in alternating years.

Magnolia ‘Ann’ (Height about 10 feet, Width before pruning 20-25 feet, width after pruning about 15-17 feet, understory height before pruning 3.5-4 feet, after pruning 6-7 feet.) To somewhat control the lax nature of this tree habit we have staked and supported selected trunks on this plant so that we can grow other plants around and beneath it.

*I do not recommend planting English walnut trees in an ornamental flower garden.  We have them in our gardens because they were the only large established trees in the area of the house when I bought the property and we established our flower beds.  The tree blooms in the spring and the nuts and nut casings in the fall make a mess.

**Fraxinus not ‘Raywood’  When it came time to replace a walnut tree that died in the garden, I chose to purchase a specimen dormant Raywood ash as a replacement.  Unfortunately, when spring arrived and it leafed out, the plant was certainly an ash but was definitely not Fraxinus ‘Raywood’.  I like the tree and while we have had several tree experts look at the tree no one has been able to give it a positive identification.  I’m certain that at some point we will get a correct identification for the tree but for now since we do not sell the plant, not ‘Raywood’ works just fine.

Mike

A to Z of Summer Blooming Perennials: E-I

My travels through the alphabet of summer blooms continues on…
Erigeron karvinskianus `Profusion’ (Fleabane): Lots of little (3/8” or so) white daisy shaped flowers and the reverse of the petal has just enough pink to make things interesting.  This plant blooms continuously from May through October or until frost.   Put it in half to full day sun and it’s not unusual to have a couple of hundred blooms at a time on an established plant.  Erigeron `Profusion’ takes regular well-drained garden soil and occasional watering in the summer months.    It does seed around a bit but in this case it just means that you get to have more, and in this case more is a good thing.  This is a great plant for use in pots and what’s more it’s hardy to minus 20 degrees F.

Fuchsias (The hardy ones that is): Okay everybody, you have my permission, go ahead and get your fuchsias out of those hanging baskets and into the ground where they belong.  A goodly number of the fuchsia you have in baskets are perfectly hardy when put in the ground.  So what do I mean by hardy?  Well, I grow about a hundred and ten varieties in the ground and lost only one to the December 1998 freeze where our lows for three consecutive nights hovered around 11 degrees F.  What’s more, when established, I grow most of them in full sun to part shade.   Once you get a hardy Fuchsia in the ground they can become anything from a small to medium sized shrub and yes you will need to prune them down in the spring.  They do like rich soil with a thorough watering about once a week in the drier months and if it’s really hot maybe twice a week.  I fertilize them in the spring with a complete timed release fertilizer and then I basically sit back and enjoy them.  A few to check out are Fuchsia `David’, F. `Double Otto’, F. `Surprise’, F. `Old Fashioned’, F. `Cardinal’,  F. `Black Prince’, and F. `Mephisto’.   Oh yes and did I mention the hummingbird wars?

Gaura lindheimeri (Now renamed Oenothora lindheimeri): There is a seed strain of Gaura available called “Whirling Butterflies’.  I can not think of any better two-word description for the flowers on this plant.    Growing thin tough arching stems to about 4 feet in height, Gaura stems move and sway in the breeze and the white, one inch, flowers dance like, well you know.  There’s also a pink flowered form available called Gaura ‘Siskyou Pink” (Introduced by Siskyou Rare Plant Nursery in Medford).  Gaura lindheimeri is native to the southern plains states and hence likes all day sun, handles poor soil and when established appreciates water about every other week in the summer.   Note: The leaves tend to get red splotches on them for no apparent reason, it doesn’t seem to hurt the plant so if it happens to yours don’t worry.

Hypericum x inodorum `Elstead’ (St. John’s Wort): When I got into the nursery business I thought there was just one Hypericum, you all know the one I mean.  The one that was planted as landscaping around every bank parking lot in the 70’s, 80’s & 90’s.  The one that spreads by runners and nearly takes an act of God to eradicate.   Well, this isn’t that one.  Hypericum `Elstead’ is one of a group of shrubby hybrid (hence the “x inodorum”) hypericums that have purple, gold or variegated foliage.   Naturally, just to be difficult, I picked the green foliaged form, did I mention the pink seed pods?  Yep, following the golden-yellow, ¾ inch flowers the seed pods develop, first showing up as a pale ivory color and then as they develop and ripen the pods go through the shades of pink and ultimately almost to red by summer end.   The flowers come in waves throughout the summer so there are always different stages of pod development going on.  `Elstead’ gets to be about 3.5’ to 4’ tall and by 3’ wide. Cut the plant down to about 6 inches tall each spring to renew the plant’s vigor.   It takes full sun to part shade and appreciates a good soak about every other week in the summer. Hardy to zero. (BTW, I love Hydrangeas also and it was a toss up as to whether I list the Hypericum or Hydrangea serrata ‘Preziousa’)

Indigofera heterantha: Having only grown this 4’ tall by 4’ wide arching Himalayan shrub for a couple of years, I’m just beginning to see the plant move towards its maturity.  Related to the familiar black locust (Robinia pseudoacacia) sans thorns, Indigofera heterantha bears lavender pink, pea type flowers in great profusion along the stems for most of July, August and early September.   The bumblebees are constantly at the plant and while I won’t say it’s a favorite with the hummingbirds, I certainly see them visiting it often enough.   I grow it in nearly full sun with well-drained soil and I suspect that in our area it will perform at it’s best in as much sun as we have available in our gardens.   The plant is hardy to a minus 10 degrees F. making it a valuable addition to gardeners who live at higher elevations.

I hope to have rest of the alphabet completed before summer is over.  So stay tuned.

Mike

Tough Hydrangeas For Northwest Gardens

The winter of 2010-11 dealt three blows to gardens in the Northwest during three distinct rounds of near record cold weather and rain.  A November freeze harmed many woody plants.  Later freezes caused further damage.  These were followed by continual rain and cloudiness well into May, which allowed little sunlight and warmth during the spring.  Most plants responded by delaying their growth, some up to 6 weeks.

At Joy Creek Nursery, we usually cut back our hydrangeas at the end of February when we have labor available for winter cleanup.  We have done this for many years and our hydrangeas have always responded well and shown little sign of damage from late frosts.  This year, however, parts of our garden and stockfields look as if they suffered a total knock out.   While we did not have any hydrangeas die, many lost much of their previous year’s wood.  They are just now sending up new growth from their bases.  We do not expect much bloom from them this year.

Despite all of these set-backs, a number of hydrangeas look untouched by the winter.  Hydrangea serrata and its many cultivars did not suffer at all.  The following is a list of Hydrangea macrophylla cultivars that show little damage from the winter.

Hydrangea ‘Blue Wave’

Hydrangea ‘Mathilda Gutges’

Hydrangea ‘Merrit Supreme Blue’

Hydrangea ‘Alpengluhen’

Hydrangea ‘All Summer Beauty’

Hydrangea ‘Freudenstein’

Hydrangea ‘Gertrude Glahn’

Hydrangea ‘Lanarth White’

Hydrangea ‘Goliath’

Hydrangea ‘Veitchii’

Hydrangea ‘Trophee’

Hydrangea ‘Mariesii Lilacina’

Hydrangea ‘Mariesii Grandiflora’

Hydrangea ‘Forever Pink’